In the Summer 2008 issue of Edible Portland, Lola Milholland writes: "Homemade ice cream is easy to make and delicious, plus it offers a number of advantages to the store-bought stuff: I have complete control over the quality of my ingredients, and I can make any flavor I have the power to imagine." Lola also emphasizes that the chemistry of making ice cream is important. Read more in Edible D.I.Y. - Homemade Ice Cream.

Photos by Leah Harb

BLUEBERRY ICE CREAM
From Lola Milholland
Makes approximately 1 quart

1/2 cup sugar
2 cups blueberries, fresh or frozen
3 Tbsp lemon juice
2 cups heavy cream, cold
Kosher salt

1. Combine sugar and 1/4 cup water in a large saucepan over low heat. Whisk constantly until the sugar dissolves completely. Add the blueberries, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt.

2. Cook until the berries become tender, and then mash the berries to release their purple juices. Simmer 5–10 minutes.

Continue reading " Recipe: Blueberry Ice Cream " »

Posted by Laura Ford at 8:28 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

ALL-BUTTER FLAKY PIE DOUGH
From Piper Davis, Co-owner and Cuisine Manager, Grand Central Bakery
Yields almost 2 lbs of dough, enough for 3 single-crust pies or 3 galettes

Make a double batch so that you have a stash in the freezer. There’s nothing better when you’re in the mood to bake a pie, tart, or galette. Defrost it overnight in the refrigerator and the rest is easy.

3 cups (1 lb) all-purpose flour
10 3/4 oz unsalted European-style butter, cold, cut in 1/4–1/2-inch chunks
2 Tbsp granulated sugar
2 tsp salt
1/2–3/4 cup ice water
1 Tbsp lemon juice

By hand
1. Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a metal or ceramic mixing bowl with high sides. Chill for at least 2 hours, and up to overnight. Blend the cold butter into the chilled ingredients using a pastry blender or by rubbing the chunks of butter with the flour using your fingers. Stop mixing when the texture of the flour changes from silky to mealy; this should only take a few minutes. Don’t worry if a few larger chunks of butter remain.

2. Make a well in the flour mixture and drizzle the lemon juice and 1/2 cup of the ice water in while gently mixing with a fork. Check the moistness of the dough by gathering a small fistful; if it holds together, it’s ready. If it is dry or crumbly, slowly add the remaining 1/4 cup of water, testing the dough by pinching it occasionally.

3. Be careful to add only as much water as it takes to combine the dough into a ball or disk. The exact amount of water you will need depends on a number of circumstances, including the moisture content of the flour, the quality of the butter, and the weather. When it has the proper amount of water, the dough will come together without much effort or deliberate packing. If you need to add more water, make sure the ingredients are still cold.

4. Form the dough into three 12-ounce disks if you are using it for pie crusts, or a rectangle if you plan to make puff pastry. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill for at least 2 hours before rolling and forming.

With an electric stand mixer
When I make this dough at home, I like to use my 5-quart KitchenAid mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

1. Once again, chill the bowl and dry ingredients before cutting in the cold, cubed butter. By mixing between speeds 1 and 2 for 1–2 minutes, the silky texture of the flour will become mealy but will still contain some larger chunks of butter. When this happens, reduce the mixer speed to 1 and drizzle in the lemon juice and 1/2 cup of the ice water while the paddle is turning. Check the moistness of the dough and continue as you would by hand, adding enough water for the dough to hold together when you gather a fistful.

2. Form into three disks or one rectangle and chill.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 4:32 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Read Edible Portland's story about grass-fed beef here. Learn where to purchase grass-fed beef here.

BEST BURGERS
From Abigail Chipley
Serves 4

1 1/2 lbs ground beef
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for grill grates

1. In a large bowl, combine beef, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and garlic; season very generously with salt and ground pepper. Using your hands or a fork, gently combine. With a light hand, form into 4 balls; then gently shape each into a 3/4-inch thick patty.

2. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. Brush grill grates with oil. Place burgers on grill and cook until desired doneness, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. (Do not press down on burgers, as this will release juices.) Serve on toasted buns with desired accompaniments.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:58 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

ROMAN GRILLED CHICKEN — DEVIL'S STYLE
Adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan
From Cathy Whims, Owner and Chef, Nostrana, 1401 SE Morrison, Portland, OR

Serves 4 to 6

1 chicken, 3 to 3 1/2 lb
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 Tbsp black peppercorns
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and more for drizzling
Sea salt

1. Place chicken on a meat cutting board. Using strong scissors cut out the backbone on both sides to remove. Crack the breastbone from behind, flattening out the chicken with your hands (as flat as you can). Turn the chicken over and make cuts where legs and wings go into the body (so they may lay out flatter), but without detaching them completely. Turn the chicken over and pound out as flat as possible using a meat pounder or rolling pin.

2. Wrap peppercorns in a towel and crush them coarsely with a clean meat pounder or rolling pin. In a shallow baking pan that will hold chicken flat, mix lemon juice, peppercorns, pepper flakes and olive oil. Mix well, then add the chicken and rub all over. Marinate at room temperature 2 to 3 hours, turning and basting from time to time.

3. Light a charcoal or wood fire and let a large bed of white ash form. Remove chicken from marinade and salt well. Place skin side down on grill and cook until skin is colored brown. Baste it well, then turn over and cook until cooked through, turning and basting from time to time. When done, drizzle with olive oil and serve at once.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 2:15 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Read Edible Portland's story about grass-fed beef here. Learn where to purchase grass-fed beef here.

SIRLOIN STEAK WITH SPICY PEPPER SAUCE
From Abigail Chipley
Serves 4

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, ribs and seeds removed, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 plum tomatoes, chopped
2 roasted poblano chile peppers (see Note), thinly sliced
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
1 tsp ground New Mexico or ancho chile powder
2 sirloin steaks (about 1 1/2 lbs)

1. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add onion and red peppers; season with salt. Cook, stirring often, until golden-brown, about 10 minutes. Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomato, poblano peppers, and 1/2 cup water. Reduce heat; simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; add lime juice and season to taste with salt.

2. Meanwhile, prepare steaks: Rub with remaining tablespoon oil and chile powder; season generously with salt. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high heat. Grill until medium-rare (130 degrees), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Let rest, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut steak into 4 serving portions; spoon pepper sauce over each.

Note:
Freshly roasted poblano peppers are often available at the Portland Farmer’s Market. To roast your own: place on an aluminum foil-lined sheet pan 4 inches below a broiler. Turn regularly until blistered and blackened all over, 5 to 10 minutes. Place in a bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and let cool for 10 minutes. Rub the blackened skin off and remove stems and seeds. Rinse chiles to remove skin and seeds, if necessary.

Posted by Laura Ford at 8:56 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Oregon is home to several hundred dairy farm families whose dedication and hard work has resulted in a delicious array of yogurt, sour cream, creamery butter, ice cream and national and international award-winning specialty and artisan cheeses.

June is a great time to thank those farmers. Not only is it National Dairy Month, but fresh cheeses and yogurts are at their prime due to sweet spring grasses. Chef Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marché Restaurant in Eugene shared the recipe below to get a head start on celebrating.

OREGON BLUE CHEESE AND HAZELNUT LOG
From Chef Stephanie Pearl Kimmel, Marché Restaurant, Eugene, OR

8 oz Nancy’s Cream Cheese
5 oz Oregon Blue Cheese
1 Tbsp finely minced shallot (1 medium-sized shallot or substitute the white part of a scallion)
2 oz hazelnuts, toasted
1 baguette
Unsalted butter
Pears

1. Place the cream cheese in a mixing bowl. Crumble the blue cheese over the top. Leave the cheeses to soften at room temperature.

2. Finely mince the shallot and set aside. Roughly chop the toasted hazelnuts, then continue chopping until the texture is somewhere between coarse and powder. Set aside.

3. When the cheeses are softened, blend them in a mixer with the paddle attachment or mix by hand with a heavy wooden spoon. Add the shallots and incorporate evenly into the mix.

4. Take an 18x12-inch piece of plastic wrap and lay it out on a cutting board or counter horizontally. Imagining the shape of the log, spoon the cheese mixture across the center of the plastic wrap, leaving a couple inches of space on the right and left-hand sides. Now fold the part of the plastic wrap closest to you up and over the cheese and roll into log shape, twisting the sides. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight, until firm and the flavors have had a chance to marry.

5. Before serving, lay out a piece of plastic wrap, parchment or waxed paper, and place the chopped hazelnuts on it. Unwrap the cheese log and roll it in the nuts until they adhere well to the surface. Fill in any spaces with the finer bits.

6. Slice baguette into thin slices, butter and toast in a 425-degree oven. Allow to cool. Core pears, slice into quarter-inch pieces and toss with lemon juice. To serve, arrange the Oregon Blue Cheese log in the center of a platter and surround with baguette toasts and pear slices.

Posted by Laura Ford at 3:09 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

ASPARAGUS AU GRATIN

By Scott Weaver, Executive Chef, Elephants Delicatessen

Makes 4 servings

1 lb asparagus
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 Tbsp minced shallots
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup creme fraiche*
1/4 cup gruyere cheese
1 tsp fresh tarragon

1. Preheat the broiler and position an oven rack 8 inches from the heat.

2. Prepare asparagus by holding asparagus spear in your hand and breaking off the bottom where it snaps; this is the tough part of the stem. Discard.

3. Melt butter in a large sauté pan. Add minced shallots and cook over moderately high heat until softened, about 1 minute. Add prepared asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and cook briefly over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender.

4. Transfer asparagus to a medium gratin dish and arrange with asparagus heads pointing in once direction.

5. Combine crème fraiche and grated gruyere cheese. Spread evenly over asparagus. When ready to serve, broil until golden and bubbling, shifting the dish for even browning, about 1-3 minutes. Sprinkle with tarragon and serve.

* You can substitute mascarpone for the crème fraiche, which will give the dish an earthy flavor.

Posted by Laura Ford at 8:45 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Ingredients for Hollandaise Sauce. Photo by Leah Harb

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

By Jonathan Merritt, Chef, Toast restaurant
5222 SE 52nd Ave, Portland

Yields approximately 3 cups

16 Tbsp (2 sticks) butter
1 sprig thyme
1 large shallot, peeled and sliced
1/2 tsp cracked peppercorns
1/2 Tbsp sel gris
1 tsp lemon juice
8 egg yolks
1 pint water

1. Melt the butter with half a sprig of thyme over low heat. Reserve.

2. Place the shallots, the rest of the thyme, pepper, sel gris, and lemon juice in a stock pot over low heat. Simmer until the mixture reduces to about 1/4 of its original volume.

3. Place this reduction into a medium-size stainless steel bowl. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water. Whisk in the room temperature egg yolks. Continue to whisk the mixture, touching it occasionally to feel its temperature. Small air bubbles will appear and it will feel slightly warmer than the air when it’s ready for the butter.

4. While stirring continuously, very slowly drizzle in the melted butter. Be patient! Work very slowly! When the butter is fully incorporated, increase the heat and continue to whisk until the sauce becomes like a loose mayonnaise.

5. Take the bowl off of the water and, while still stirring, add water from the pot into the sauce to thin it — about 1/3 cup or so depending on when you’ll serve the sauce and your desired consistency. Before serving, taste the Hollandaise and adjust the flavor with salt and lemon juice to taste.

Note: If you’re not going to use the Hollandaise immediately, pour it into a covered container set in warm water around 145 degrees. Stir occasionally to prevent excessive thickening.

To make a Benedict Oh, a breakfast specialty at Toast:
Toast an English muffin. Set both halves on a plate, lay two poached eggs on top, and add a dollop of Hollandaise on each egg. Serve with a twist of pepper, two freshly griddled breakfast sausage patties, and a small pile of lightly blanched leafy greens.

Posted by Laura Ford at 12:05 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

TURNIP AND TURNIP GREENS SOUP

From Troy MacLarty, Chef, Lovely Hula Hands
4057 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR 97227

Makes 3 quarts

1 medium onion, sliced thinly
2 leeks, white and light green part only, washed and sliced thinly
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups water
3 cups small white turnips, cleaned and sliced
1 small russet potato, peeled and roughly chopped
4 parsley stems
3 bay leaves
4 thyme branches
1 cup chopped turnip greens
Olive oil as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Slowly cook onions and leeks in olive oil in a covered pan, seasoning with salt and pepper, until they are soft and broken down completely. This technique, known as “sweating,” creates depth and richness in the finished soup. Add chicken stock, water, turnips, and potato.

2. Make a sachet by wrapping parsley, bay leaves, and thyme in cheesecloth and tying with butcher’s twine. Add sachet to soup and bring to a simmer.

3. While the soup is cooking, sauté turnip greens in olive oil until tender. Season with salt and set aside to cool.

4. Remove and discard sachet once potatoes and turnips are tender. Puree soup in blender and pass through a mesh strainer. (Be careful with hot soup: only fill blender 1/3 full and start on a slow speed.) Adjust seasoning of finished soup with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency of soup with water to your liking.

5. To the blender, add 1 cup soup and turnip greens. Puree until smooth.

6. Serve soup immediately with white soup as base and green soup swirled on top as garnish. If serving soup later, chill the pureed greens quickly over an ice cold water bath or they will lose their bright color.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:22 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Toast's freshly made English muffins. Photo by Leah Harb

ENGLISH MUFFINS

By Jonathan Merritt, Chef, Toast restaurant
5222 SE 52nd Ave, Portland

Makes 15-20 muffins

2 lbs (7-8 cups) all-purpose flour
1/2 oz (2 packages) instant yeast
1/2 oz evaporated cane juice sugar
1/2 oz fine sea salt
3 cups cold water
Cornmeal
Extra flour
Cooking oil (vegetable, canola or grape seed)

1. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in a stainless steel bowl.

2. Make a well in the flour mixture, and pour in cold water. With a wooden spatula, mix the water and flour until it becomes a rough mass. With your hands, bring the dough together with a push-fold-turn kneading method, just until it comes together. It will still be a little tacky. The goal is to end up with lean dough that becomes extremely dry as it rises. If too much gluten develops, it will be like bread rather than a porous muffin.

3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for about 1 hour. Let the dough rise to double the original volume.

4. Dust a flat work surface with a 50% flour and 50% cornmeal mixture. Turn the dough out onto the dusted surface, dust the top of the dough with the same mixture, and roll out to a half-inch thickness.

5. Let the dough sit for about 2 minutes. Place parchment paper in a sheet pan and sprinkle with cornmeal. Cut out muffins with a floured ring mold (3 inch diameter). Don’t spin the mold; simply push it down and lift it up. Move the muffins to the sheet pan and let them rest for about 30 minutes.

6. Once the muffins are ready, heat a griddle on low. Oil the griddle and cook each muffin at a low heat until the interior is baked—about 10 minutes on each side. Add oil to the griddle when you turn the muffins as each surface will absorb a little.

7. When done, place on a cooling rack and let cool completely.

8. To open the muffins, either use a fork to pry them apart or use both hands to pull them apart. (Do not twist.) Toast and serve with jam.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 1:41 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Read the Edible D.I.Y. story, Making Cheese: Kitchen Magic with Curds and Whey by Tami Parr. To find out where to purchase special ingredients and supplies as called for in this recipe, go here.

FRESH MOZZARELLA

Adapted from Ricki Carroll, Author of Home Cheese Making
Makes about 3/4 pound

1 gallon whole cow milk (avoid ultra-pasteurized)
1 1/2 tsp citric acid
1/4 tsp liquid rennet
Cheese salt

Combine Ingredients
1. Combine rennet and 1/4 cup water in a small bowl and set aside. In another bowl, dissolve citric acid powder in 1/2 cup water and stir until dissolved. Pour citric acid into a very large pot. Add milk, stir, and heat moderately. Small clots starting to form and float in the milk is normal.

2. Using a cooking thermometer, remove pot from heat when the milk reaches 88 degrees. Add rennet and stir for 30 seconds, then allow to set undisturbed for 6-8 minutes. The process is complete when the liquid milk has transformed into a semi-firm custard consistency.

3. While still in the pot, cut the curd gently with a knife. Drawing the knife through the curd from top to bottom and from side to side, you’ll end up with a checkerboard pattern in the surface of the curd. The liquid whey should be clear and slightly yellowish.

Drain, Heat and Knead
4. Scoop out the curd and put into a colander. Curds will be soft but should hold their shape. Drain curds briefly while gently pressing. Pour off pooling whey.

5. If you have a microwave, microwave curds on high for 1 minute. Drain off excess whey, then knead the curd the same way you would bread. Heat for 30 seconds, drain, and knead again. Repeat this process at least 3 times. Note that the cheese curd will become very warm, so you may want to wear rubber gloves. Incorporate salt in small amounts as you knead (not more than a teaspoon).

6. If you don’t have a microwave, heat a pot of water to near boiling—about 180 degrees. Dip the curd in the hot water for several seconds, remove, and knead. It’s helpful to divide the curd into several segments. Repeat the process about 3 times. Incorporate salt to taste.

Stretch!
7. As you knead, the mozzarella will gradually become smooth and pliable, much like bread dough. When the curd stretches effortlessly like salt water taffy, shape the cheese in any manner you like (balls of any size, one large ball, or strands).

8. Cool in ice water. Once cool, it’s ready to eat!

All photos by Tami Parr. Tami is the author of Pacific Northwest Cheese Project, an online chronicle of all things artisan cheese.

Posted by Laura Ford at 8:52 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

By Ellen Jackson
Serves 4

2 1/2 lbs lamb steak (from the leg or other tender cut), chunked in 1 1/2-inch squares
1/2 cup olive oil
Zest and pulp of 1 lemon (cut away peel & pith), finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely minced (about 1 1/2 Tbsp)
1 Tbsp ground cumin (freshly toasted and ground, if possible)
1 tsp each coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

Minted Yogurt Sauce
2 cups plain whole milk or Greek yogurt
Juice of one lemon
1 tsp finely minced garlic
1/2 cup parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves, coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Finely chopped cilantro for garnish

1. Put the chunked lamb in a bowl with the olive oil, lemon pulp and zest, garlic, ground cumin, salt, pepper, and parsley. Toss with your hands to combine and coat each piece. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator 4 to 6 hours, or up to overnight.

2. To make the minted yogurt sauce, whisk the yogurt, lemon juice, and garlic together. Fold in the parsley and mint, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Soak 6 to 8 wooden skewers in water at least one hour before you want to grill the lamb.

3. When you are ready to cook the lamb, remove it from the refrigerator and preheat the grill to high, covered, for 10 minutes. Thread the lamb chunks on the skewers and reduce the heat to medium high.

4. Lightly brush the kebabs with oil before placing them on the grill. Cook, turning several times, until the lamb chunks have browned but are still slightly pink in the center, 8 to 10 minutes total.

5. Place 2 skewers on each plate, top with minted yogurt and cilantro, and serve alongside couscous or rice.

Posted by Laura Ford at 3:26 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

By Jonathan Grumbles, Opposable Thumb Gallery and Café
3312 SE Belmont, Portland, OR 97214

Yields 6-8 servings or 2 quarts

1 stick Kombu (dry seaweed)
8 medium shitake mushrooms, stems removed and reserved and caps cut into thin slices
2 quarter-sized spring onions, tops removed and sliced on bias into thin slices
1 medium-sized carrot, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick discs
8 cups water
1 piece Wakame seaweed, cut in thin strips
1/3 cup shoyu or tamari
1/8 cup brown rice vinegar
1/2 lb tofu cut into 1-inch cubes
6-8 asparagus spears, bottoms snapped off and discarded and rest cut thinly on bias
1 cup snow peas, ends trimmed off
8-10 Tbsp mellow white miso
1/2 bunch watercress, chopped, or 1 1/2 cup spinach, rinsed well

1. Combine Kombu, shitake stems, spring onion bulbs, carrot and water in a medium-sized stock pot and bring to a boil. Then reduce to simmer for about 10 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

2. Once all other ingredients are ready, either fish out the stock ingredients with a hand-held strainer or pour stock through a sieve into another stock pot.

3. Add shitake slices, Wakame strips, shoyu and brown rice vinegar to the stock. Simmer over medium-high heat for 10 minutes.

4. Add tofu and simmer for 5 more minutes.

5. Add asparagus, snow peas, and spring onion tops. Remove 1 cup broth and combine with miso, making sure to stir well so there are no clumps. Add the miso stock back to rest of the soup and simmer for 5 minutes more over low heat. Be careful not to boil as this destroys the beneficial properties of the Miso cultures.

6. Remove the soup from heat and add in the watercress or spinach. Serve.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:57 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

SPRING VEGETABLE AND CHIVE DUMPLING POTPIE

Recipe by Ali Jepson and Evan Dohrmann, Little Red Bike Café
4823 N Lombard St, Portland, OR 97203

Yields about 6 servings

Sauce
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 Tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups vegetable broth

Chive Dumplings
6 Tbsp cornmeal
6 Tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 cup milk
1 large egg
3 Tbsp finely chopped chives

1. Sauce: Melt butter over low heat. Add flour and increase heat to medium. With a wooden spoon, stir butter and flour constantly until they begin bubbling and start to turn slightly golden. Slowly whisk in vegetable broth. Whisk until the sauce is very smooth. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for 5 minutes. Once the sauce has thickened, set aside and begin cooking the filling.

2. Filling: Melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion and green garlic. Stirring occasionally, cook until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Add the onions to the thickened sauce. Stir in potatoes, carrots, asparagus, peas, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, and dill. Return the saucepan to medium heat, and stirring often, cook until the potatoes and carrots begin to soften, about 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste.

3. Dumpling batter: Combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. Add butter to dry ingredients and cut into pea-sized pieces using a fork or a pastry blender. In a separate bowl, whisk milk and egg together. Add milk mixture and fresh chives into the cornmeal mixture and stir just to moisten.

4. Drop rounded tablespoons of batter onto the bubbling filling. Cover the saucepan and adjust heat to keep the potpie at a gentle boil, until dumplings are cooked, about 10 minutes.

5. Use a knife to cut into one of the dumplings to make sure that they are firm throughout. Remove the saucepan from heat and spoon filling and dumplings onto serving plates.

Posted by Laura Ford at 1:25 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

LITTLE GEM SALAD

From Troy MacLarty, Chef, Lovely Hula Hands
4057 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR 97227

Makes 6 servings

16 heads little gem lettuce, cut in half lengthwise, washed and dried
18 small breakfast radishes, stems removed
4 farm-fresh eggs
1/4 baguette, thinly sliced
1/4 bunch chives
1/4 bunch chervil, picked from stem
1/8 bunch tarragon, picked from stem
1/8 bunch parsley, picked from stem
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 small garlic clove, lightly crushed so it stays together
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Make vinaigrette by mixing mustard, red wine vinegar, garlic, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Allow mixture to macerate for 15 minutes. Add olive oil and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

2. Make croutons by brushing baguette slices with olive oil and toasting in 400-degree oven until lightly browned. Allow to cool and break up into croutons.

3. Cook eggs in simmering water for 9 minutes and then shock in ice water. Peel eggs and cut into quarters. Each egg should have a set white and soft yolk. Season the eggs lightly with salt and pepper.

4. Slice radish thinly on a mandolin or by hand. Toss little gems, radishes, croutons, and herbs with a good pinch of salt and pepper. Toss with vinaigrette, keeping in mind that little gems are fairly compact and therefore need more dressing than typical salad greens. Separate salad onto six plates; top each with three-quarters of an egg, and serve.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:40 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Read the Edible D.I.Y. story, Making Cheese: Kitchen Magic with Curds and Whey by Tami Parr. To find out where to purchase special ingredients and supplies as called for in this recipe, go here.

PANEER

One of the simplest cheeses you can make at home is paneer. Paneer is a style of cheese made in India that uses the acidity of lemon juice to curdle the milk. It is a plain tasting cheese that takes well to a variety of sauces and spices. It’s good as a snack when drizzled with honey. Indian cooks use paneer in a variety of dishes such as the popular staple of Indian restaurants, palak paneer. Cut your finished product into cubes, brown in butter (or ghee), and combine with your chosen sauces or accompaniments.

Adapted from Lord Krishna’s Cuisine: The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking by Yamuna Devi

Makes about 12 ounces of cheese. Use immediately, or keep in the refrigerator for up to one week.

1 gallon whole cow milk (avoid ultra-pasteurized)
8 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice (or lime juice or white vinegar)

Combine Ingredients
1. Heat milk in large pot until boiling, stirring occasionally to avoid scalding. (Be careful—once milk boils, it foams and makes a mess quickly.)

2. Turn off heat. Add lemon juice and stir. The milk solids should start to separate almost immediately. Once fully separated (1-2 minutes), cover and let the mixture sit for 15 minutes.

Separate Curds and Whey
3. The process is complete when the whey is yellowish and clear. If the whey is cloudy or milky, allow extra time for further separation. If necessary, add additional lemon juice in very small amounts.

4. Line a colander with 2-3 layers of cheesecloth and place colander in the sink. Gently scoop the curds out of the pot and place into the lined colander.

5. Once you’ve transferred the curds, pick up your “bag” of curds and rinse around the outside to wash away any residual acidity. Note the texture and taste the curds—they should be light, fluffy, and taste pleasantly of dairy.

Drain Curd
6. Draining can be accomplished in a variety of ways—by tying the curd bag to your kitchen faucet or by placing the lined colander in your kitchen sink and letting gravity work its magic. For quicker draining, place a moderate weight on top of the draining curd (a bowl of water works well).

7. Drain until the consistency is to your liking—time will determine the texture of the finished product. Generally speaking, drain at least 1 hour and up to 5.

All photos by Tami Parr. Tami is the author of Pacific Northwest Cheese Project, an online chronicle of all things artisan cheese.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 8:42 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

This drink will make your whole weekend. Find more seasonal recipes for the holidays here.

Sahagún's mocha. Photo by Macerating Shallots

OREGON CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT MILK

From Elizabeth Montes, Sahagún Handmade Chocolates
10 NW 16th Ave., Portland

Use your favorite dark chocolate. I used Bolivian 68% Cru Sauvage. Although this is a water-based chocolate drink, it allows for a sharper chocolate edge while the roasted hazelnuts provide a buttery richness that non-milk drinkers will have the opportunity to appreciate.

1 1/2 oz high quality bittersweet chocolate 68%, chopped finely
1/2 cup roasted hazelnuts
2 1/2 cups water

Blend hazelnuts with water until the mixture looks smooth. Pour through a medium/fine strainer or cheesecloth twice. Reserve 3/8 cup at room temperature and store the rest of nut milk in refrigerator for other uses.

Put chocolate in a small mixing bowl. Put this bowl into a larger bowl that is partially filled with hot water. Carefully stir the chocolate until it melts. Lift the bowl containing chocolate out of the larger bowl and discard the hot water. Add 1 tablespoon of hazelnut milk to the melted chocolate. With a spoon, stir continuously until the mixture looks like pudding. Add 1 tablespoon more of the nut milk and stir again. Add the remaining nut milk and stir until the mixture is a thick chocolate drink.

Drink at room temperature or warm up for hot chocolate. Add honey to taste.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 12:36 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Photo by Christine Hyatt

CANNELLINI BEANS WITH CHANTERELLES, SAGE AND DELICATA SQUASH

From Cory Schreiber

See Cory's story on cooking shell beans here: Winter's Bounty in a Bean Shell

Serves 4-6

1 cup cannellini beans or other medium-size dried white beans
2 Tbsp kosher salt
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 thyme sprigs
1 clove garlic, whole
2 shallots
1 bay leaf
1 firm, sweet apple (Gala, Braeburn, Cameo, Golden Delicious)
1/2 small delicata or sweet dumpling squash
2 oz dried or 6-8 oz fresh chanterelle mushrooms
1 cup fresh apple cider
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
6 fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
16 leaves Italian flat-leaf parsley

1. Follow directions for cooking dried beans, adding 1 tablespoon kosher salt, 2 tablespoons olive oil, thyme, garlic, 1 whole shallot, and bay leaf. When beans are done, remove the thyme, garlic, shallot and bay leaf. Let the beans sit in the cooking liquid.

2. Peel and thinly slice the remaining shallot. Peel, core and dice the apple into half-inch pieces. Peel the squash and then cut it in half lengthwise. Remove the seeds and thinly slice it crosswise into half rings.

3. Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a medium-size sauté pan. Add the sliced shallot, apple, and squash with 1/2 cup of the bean water and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and let simmer for 5 minutes to soften and release the flavors.

4. Meanwhile, soak the dried mushrooms by submerging them in water. Let stand for 10 minutes. Rinse and re-soak. If using fresh mushrooms, brush clean and thinly slice. To the sauté pan, add mushrooms, apple cider, 2 cups of beans, and 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Stir. Cover and cook over medium heat until warm, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with remaining salt and freshly ground black pepper.

5. Add the apple cider vinegar, sage and butter. Bring to a simmer. Turn off heat and let beans stand for a few minutes. Spoon beans into bowls, garnish with parsley and serve with sliced bread.

Posted by Laura Ford at 12:07 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

OREGON DUNGENESS CRAB AND PICKLED PEPPERS

Adapted from Charlie Branford, Local Ocean Seafoods, Newport

16 pickled cherry peppers (in a jar or from a deli counter)
1 lemon
1 Tbsp parsley, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 shallot, minced
1 scallion, minced
Extra virgin olive oil
16 oz (1 lb or 1 loosely packed cup) Oregon Dungeness crabmeat
1 bunch parsley, minced
1 oz queso fresco or feta, crumbled
Lemon juice

One day before serving the dish, cut off the stems of the cherry peppers and de-seed them. Set aside in a mixing bowl. Cut one lemon into quarters, squeeze juice onto the peppers, and then add 1 tablespoon parsley, garlic, shallot, and scallion. Cover with extra virgin olive oil and let marinate for 8 to 24 hours.

The next day, prepare the stuffing. Sift through the crabmeat, removing all of the shell pieces and breaking up the larger pieces of crab. Add a handful of parsley, a good dash of olive oil, queso fresco or feta, and lemon juice. Add salt and pepper to taste.

For a fancy appetizer, strain the peppers, reserving the infused oil. Stuff the peppers with the crab mixture—don’t be shy. Drizzle peppers with the infused oil, garnish with crumbled feta and parsley, and serve. For a simpler dish, chop the peppers into ribbons and toss with the crab mixture. Spoon over salad greens, drizzle in oil, and serve.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:08 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

MESS O' GREENS

From Diane Santucci, Chef, Russell Street Bar-B-Que
325 NE Russell St., Portland

3 Tbsp oil
1 cup onions, diced
1 Tbsp garlic, chopped
2-3 cups broth (we use vegetable)
2 bunches kale, ribs removed, washed and torn or cut up
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

Heat oil in a lidded, heavy-bottomed pot (6 quarts or more). Add onions, sauté for 2 minutes, then add garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Add broth of choice and then add most of the kale, pushing down to really cram it in the pot. It may not all fit. Cover and bring to a boil until steam is escaping from the lid.

After 3-4 minutes, remove lid carefully (steam is the hottest form of heat). Use tongs to turn the greens. Add remaining kale and replace lid. Cook for 3 minutes more and turn the greens again. They should have wilted down and be simmering in the juice. You can cook them longer if you like them quite tender. We tend to leave them with a bit of “chew” to them.

Posted by Laura Ford at 8:04 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS AND PEARS

From David Machado, Chef/Owner, Lauro Kitchen
3377 SE Division, Portland

8 Oregon lamb shanks, 16-20 oz each
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
1/8 cup garlic, chopped
1/4 cup fresh ginger, chopped
Chicken stock to cover
1 Tbsp saffron
1 Tbsp cinnamon
1 Tbsp dry ginger
1 Tbsp black pepper
1 tsp cayenne pepper
8 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 cup whole hazelnuts
1 cup dried cranberries
4 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 Tbsp olive oil
16 whole shallots
4 Bosc pears, sliced into eighths
1/2 cup sugar

Liberally season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Brown lamb shanks in hot oil until golden on all sides. Remove meat and add onions, garlic, and ginger to pan for 5 minutes. Place shanks in deep casserole or roasting pan, making sure to leave room at the top for stock.

Cover lamb shanks with the chicken stock and all of the seasonings. Cover tightly and braise in a 350-degree oven for 3.5 hours or until lamb pulls easily away from the bone. In the last half hour add hazelnuts and dried cranberries.

In a sauté pan, place 4 tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of oil. Over medium heat, gently sauté the whole shallots and pear slices until golden brown. Add the sugar, which will help this process. Add some chicken stock if the pan gets too thick or dark in color.

Remove lamb shanks from braising liquid. In a separate pan reduce the braising liquid with the pears and shallots. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed. While sauce is reducing, place lamb shanks on top of a bed of couscous. Garnish with the shallots and pears. Pour reduced sauce over top. Garnish lamb with a dollop of plain yogurt and a sprinkle of parsley.

Posted by Laura Ford at 3:14 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

From Greg Mistell, Owner/Head Baker, Fleur de Lis Bakery and Cafe

3930 NE Hancock, Portland

Brown Butter Streusel
1/4 vanilla bean
8 Tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups muscovado sugar (brown sugar can be substituted)
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
Pinch salt
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or hazelnuts (optional)

Slice the vanilla bean, scrape out the seeds and put the bean and the seeds along with the butter into a small saucepan over low heat. Cook the butter until it bubbles, stir until it bubbles again and the mixture has a brownish hue and a nutty smell. Discard the bean and set the mixture aside. Mix together flour, sugar, cinnamon, salt and nuts. Add the brown butter and combine until crumbly. Set aside.

Buttermilk Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
12 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups unrefined raw sugar
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 cups buttermilk (room temperature)
2 cups apples, or any other firm ripe fruit, sliced

Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside. Cream together the butter and sugar until light. Add the eggs and the yolk one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Mix in the vanilla. Alternate adding the flour with the buttermilk, starting and ending with the flour. Do not overmix.

Prepare a 9-inch springform pan with butter and a light coating of flour. Scrape half the batter into the pan. Sprinkle half the streusel evenly over the batter. Layer the fruit on top of the streusel. Scrape the remaining batter on top of the fruit and sprinkle on the remaining streusel. Bake in a 375-degree oven for 65 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the cake comes out clean. Wait 10 minutes and remove the outside of the pan. Serve the cake while still warm with whipped cream if desired.

Posted by Laura Ford at 10:44 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Photo courtesy of Tare Panda

PEAR CUSTARD PIE

From Amy Rogol, Pastry Chef, Screen Door
2337 E Burnside, Portland

Pastry
2 1/4 cups cake flour (all-purpose works too)
3 Tbsp sugar
2 tsp salt
1/2 lb (1 stick) unsalted butter, cubed
1/3 cup water, ice-cold

Makes enough pastry dough for two 8-inch pie shells.

Combine flour, sugar and salt. Toss in butter and chill for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator. Once chilled, use your fingers to smoosh the cubed butter. This action helps to hydrate the flour. Next, add your water to the flour mixture a little at a time and combine using your hand in a scooping motion. Keep adding water until the dough feels completely hydrated but not wet. It should have a shaggy texture with no powdery dry parts.

At this point the dough can be compressed in the bowl. Turn it onto a floured surface and shape it into a rectangle. Use a rolling pin to lengthen the rectangle to 3 times its width. Like you would with a letter, evenly fold up the bottom and the top, one on top of the other, and gently press together. Cut the dough in half and wrap each piece in parchment paper. Let one rest in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 2 days before rolling. Save the other half in the freezer for another time.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. After the pastry dough has rested, roll it out on a lightly floured surface into a round approximately 1/8-inch thick. Transfer the dough to an 8-inch diameter glass pie dish. Fold crust edge under and crimp the edges. Line the crust in tinfoil, fill with dried beans, and parbake in the center of the oven for 20 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven, remove the beans (save them for next time) and let cool. This gives you time to prepare your filling.

Change the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Custard
4 eggs
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 Tbsp flour
1/3 cup melted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup pears, peeled and mashed
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp bourbon (or whiskey or rum)
1 peeled pear, cored and sliced for garnish

Start with all ingredients at room temperature.

One at a time, in the order listed above, whisk the ingredients (except the sliced pear) together in a medium sized bowl. Place pie shell on a baking sheet. Pour filling into the pie shell and carefully place the pie into the center of the oven. Bake for 30 minutes. At this point, remove the pie from the oven and fan the sliced pears around the perimeter of the pie. Return the pie to the oven and bake for another 10-15 minutes until the filling is just set with a golden hue.

It will continue to set as it cools. Chill the pie for at least 1 hour. Serve with whipped cream. For a special treat, steep the whipping cream with fresh chopped ginger, strain, and then whip.

Posted by Laura Ford at 9:20 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

SPICY GET WELL BROTH

Created by Rafael Antonio Nazario, Chef
Adapted by Angela Sanders
From Starve a Cold, Feed a Fever

2 qts chicken broth
1 inch ginger, julienned
4 large cloves garlic, slivered
4 large cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp cilantro, chopped
1/2 jalapeño pepper, chopped finely
1 tsp kosher salt (less if broth is already salty)
3/4 tsp green curry paste
1 small carrot, julienned
Zest of half a lemon
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tomato, chopped
2 Tbsp lime or lemon juice

Bring chicken broth to a simmer. Then add all ingredients except the tomato and two tablespoons lime or lemon juice. After simmering for 20 minutes, add the last 2 ingredients. Broth freezes well.

Posted by Laura Ford at 6:47 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

MOLE PIPIAN (PUMPKIN SEED MOLE SAUCE)

From Chef Ben Gonzales, Nuestra Cocina

Pumpkin seeds are available in bulk at various markets. Or scoop out a pumpkin and toast your own.

1 cup pumpkin seeds, hulled and raw
2 cloves garlic
2 fresh tomatillos, roasted, or 2 Tbsp tomatillo salsa
2 whole Roma tomatoes, roasted, fresh or canned
1 small white onion, roasted
1/2 bunch of cilantro
2 epazote leaves or a generous pinch of dried epazote (available at Mexican specialty markets and in the bulk herb section of various stores)
2 tsp toasted cumin seed, then ground
2 jalapeño peppers minced

Toast pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet until brown. In a food processor, grind seeds until chopped and then add all other ingredients. Puree until well blended. Salt to taste. Season and thin as necessary with stock or water. This can be used as a salsa to top a dish, like goat cheese baked in banana leaf, or as a mole sauce, spooned onto shredded chicken or a meaty grilled fish.

Posted by Laura Ford at 5:10 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 1 )

ANDREA'S DOUBLE CHOCOLATE PUDDING

From Heidi Yorkshire's Recipe File

3 Tbsp cornstarch
3 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
2 cups whole milk, divided
1 cup minus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
1/8 tsp salt
2 oz unsweetened chocolate
1/2 tsp vanilla
2 Tbsp unsalted butter

Sift cornstarch and cocoa powder together and stir into 1/3 cup cold milk. Set aside. In a non-stick saucepan over medium-low heat, bring sugar, 1-2/3 cups milk and salt to a boil, stirring constantly. Add chocolate and continue stirring until melted. Stir cornstarch mixture to re-blend with milk and add slowly to hot chocolate mixture, stirring until the mixture boils gently and thickens. (Be careful not to let this burn or boil over!) Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and butter in small pieces until it melts. Pour into small custard cups and chill. Serve with whipped cream if you like.

Makes 4-6 servings, depending on size of serving cups

Posted by Laura Ford at 5:00 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 1 )

Heidi Yorkshire's recipe file. Photo by Leah Harb

SARAH’S HOT OLIVE CHEESE PUFFS

From Heidi Yorkshire's Recipe File

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp paprika
1 cup (4 oz) grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese
3 Tbsp butter, softened
48 medium pimento-stuffed green olives, drained (approximately)

In a bowl, whisk together flour, salt and paprika. In a food processor, blend cheese with butter. Pour flour mixture into processor and pulse a few times until mixed. Pinch off a small amount of dough, flatten between your palms, wrap around olive and roll lightly between your palms to smooth out. (If dough is too soft to handle, chill for at least 30 minutes before using.) Just before serving, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place olives on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes, until browned on the bottom. Serve hot.

Note: Olives can be wrapped in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to bake.

Posted by Laura Ford at 4:20 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Photo by Neal Foley

ALMOND FENNEL FARRO
From the Food Front Co-op Deli

Farro is an ancient grain, highly nutritious and tasty. It’s grown at Lentz Farm in Marlin, Washington. You can substitute the farro with wheat berries, spelt berries, or kamut. This makes a nice side dish, adding a chewy, nutty texture to your meal.

2 cups farro
4 cups water
1 small bulb fennel, white part only, cut in half, core removed, very thinly sliced
1 small leek, washed, white part only, cut in half lengthwise, very thinly sliced
1 carrot, julienned
1 cup slivered, blanched almonds
1 sprig rosemary, leaves only, chopped
3 Tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley

Dressing
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp dried Italian herbs (basil, oregano, marjoram, sage)

Cook farro on the stove top or in a pressure cooker as you would rice: bring to boil, then turn down the heat, cover, and simmer until the individual grains are fluffy, tender, and chewy. This can take from 40 minutes to an hour and fifteen. Remove the pot from the heat but leave the lid on to let the grains steam.

Whisk together the dressing ingredients and prepare your fennel, leek, carrot, almonds, and herbs. Drain any excess water from the farro, and while it’s still warm, mix everything together and coat with dressing. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve cold or at room temperature. Tastes nice with a squeeze of lemon.

Posted by Laura Ford at 9:38 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 1 )

BRUSSELS SPROUTS & BACON

By Jason Barwikowski, Chef, Clyde Common
Serves 4-6

Olive oil
5-6 garlic cloves, peeled and trimmed
1 cup bacon/pancetta, cut into uniform pieces
1 red onion, julienned
1-2 bay leaves
1 thyme sprig (optional)
1 lb brussels sprouts
Splash sherry vinegar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Place a large cast-iron pan, at least 12 inches wide, over medium heat. (Andy and Bax is a great source for cast iron!) Add 1/2 cup high-quality olive oil. Heat oil and add garlic cloves. Stir with a wooden spoon and, as cloves brown and soften, gently press to break them up. When the garlic is cooked, remove and discard. Add bacon or pancetta to the pan. Turn up the heat and brown. When the pork is golden and crisp, remove and reserve.

2. Drain off all but some of the fat. Return the pan to medium heat, adding a splash more olive oil. Add the red onion. Season well with salt and pepper and stir to coat the onion in the oils and seasonings. Add bay leaf and thyme. The salt will help break down the onion and change the starches to sugar. Brown the onion, stirring often. While the onion cooks, prepare a pound of brussels sprouts by trimming off the root end and picking off a few of the outer leaves. Wash in cold water. Drain well, quarter and gather them in a bowl.

3. When the onion is caramelized, remove the bay leaf and thyme and then add the sprouts. Season with salt and pepper. (It is good style to season a dish as you go, making constant small changes.) Keep the flame on low to medium heat. Stir often. Cook this dish slowly and patiently. Add a bit of olive oil occasionally to keep the sprouts from getting too dry. When the brussels sprouts gain color and start to melt, add the pork. Add a hearty splash of good sherry vinegar and the Dijon mustard. Cook a few more minutes, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Optional: Add 1/2 cup water or chicken stock to the pan for a juicier dish. You can also add cooked black-eyed peas and grilled pork or lamb sausage towards the end of the cooking.

Posted by Laura Ford at 6:34 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

Thanksgiving is around the corner, and thankfully, Diane Morgan has set us up with her favorite Thanksgiving recipes. Just follow the links below.

Butter-Rubbed Roast Turkey with an Apple Cider Glaze
Apple-Cider Brined Turkey
Gratin of Fennel and Tomato
Cranberry Chutney

Stock up on your staples at the Portland Farmers Market Thanksgiving FEASTival on Saturday, November 17, 9:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., downtown on the South Park Blocks at the PSU campus.

For last minute shopping, the Portland Farmers Market Eastbank location, on SE Belmont and 20th, will be open for the Thanksgiving Reunion Market on Tuesday, November 20, 2 - 6 p.m.

Posted by Laura Ford at 4:42 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

GRATIN OF FENNEL AND TOMATO

From The Thanksgiving Table by Diane Morgan
Copyright 2007

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard guests say, “Fennel? I’ve never tasted fennel. This is delicious.” Whether sautéed, braised, or sliced raw for salads, fennel is always a surprise and a delight to serve. Sometimes labeled sweet anise, fennel has a texture similar to celery and a lovely, mild licorice flavor, which is a perfect foil for a rich meal. This gratin dish has been a part of my Thanksgiving buffet for at least 15 years—it’s now a tradition for us, and my family would be disappointed to do without it.

3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
5 Tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion (about 12 oz), halved, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
6 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, halved, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes, drained
1 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup (3 oz) grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Minced zest of 1 lemon

In an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat, toast the bread crumbs, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.

In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic and onion until soft, but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel and continue sautéing, stirring frequently, until the fennel has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a shallow oven-to-table casserole or gratin dish.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, and lemon zest. Sprinkle evenly over the fennel mixture. (The gratin can be made up to this point 6 to 8 hours ahead. Cover, and set aside at room temperature.)

Bake the gratin until heated through and the topping is crisp, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

Serves 10

Posted by Laura Ford at 4:19 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

CRANBERRY CHUTNEY

From The Thanksgiving Table (Chronicle Books, 2006) by Diane Morgan

After making my first batch of cranberry chutney years ago, and the many variations since, I have been hard-pressed to go back to the more traditional cranberry sauce or relish. Though I love cranberries in any form, this chutney with diced pears and apples is jewel-like when served in a glass or cut-crystal bowl. It’s a perfect do-ahead recipe, easily transported if Thanksgiving is at someone else’s home, and it makes a great gift packed in pint-size glass jars.

4 cups fresh or frozen cranberries, picked over, and stemmed
2 1/2 cups sugar
6 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks, each about 3 inches long
1 tsp salt
2 Granny Smith apples (about 6 oz each), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 firm Bosc or Anjou pears (about 6 oz each), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 small yellow onion (about 5 oz), diced
1 cup golden raisins
1/3 cup diced crystallized ginger (see Cook’s Notes)
1/2 cup whole hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed, and halved (see Cook’s Notes)

In a deep 6-quart saucepan, combine the cranberries, sugar, 1 1/4 cups water, cloves, cinnamon, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently to dissolve the sugar. Cook until the cranberries begin to pop open, about 10 to 12 minutes. Adjust the heat so the mixture simmers. Stir in the apples, pears, onion, raisins, and ginger. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until thick, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, stir in the hazelnuts, and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. Discard the cinnamon sticks and cloves if you can find them. Refrigerate in tightly sealed jars for up to 3 months.

Makes about 2 quarts

Cook’s Notes
Crystallized ginger slices are typically packaged in 4-ounce boxes and are available in the Asian foods section of well-stocked supermarkets.

Try to buy shelled hazelnuts (also known as “filberts”) with the skins removed. To roast, place the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a preheated 375-degree oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned. If they have skins, when they cool enough to handle, lay them on a clean kitchen towel, or between several sheets of paper towels. Rub the nuts to remove most of the skins (they never completely come off). You can substitute unsalted cashews, if necessary. Roast like hazelnuts, until lightly browned, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Posted by Laura Ford at 4:01 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

GRILLED QUAIL WITH OREGON HAZELNUTS, WILD HUCKLEBERRIES AND APRICOT CURRY SAUCE
From Dale Rasmussen, Chef, The Resort at the Mountain
Serves 6

Apricot Curry Sauce
1 cup dried apricots, diced
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 tsp canola oil
2 tsp curry powder
1 tsp paprika
1 cup Willamette Valley Riesling
1 cup apple cider
1/2 cup butter, softened

Place apricots, shallots, garlic and oil in a small pan and sauté for 5 minutes over medium heat. Add curry powder, paprika, Riesling and cider and cook for 15 minutes over medium heat. Let cool and add butter, then purée in a blender. Keep warm until needed.

Grilled Quail
12 semi-boneless quail
1 cup olive oil
3 Tbsp fresh thyme, chopped
3 Tbsp fresh sage, chopped

Marinate the quail in olive oil, thyme and sage for at least 1 hour or overnight in the refrigerator. Preheat a grill. Remove the quail from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Place the quail, breast side up, on a medium-hot grill. Cook for 3 minutes, and then turn over so the breast side is down and cook for 2 more minutes. Lift and adjust position on the grill to create an “x” mark on the breast. Finish cooking for about 4 minutes.

Wild Huckleberry Coulis
1 lb huckleberries
1 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 tsp cloves, ground
1 tsp ginger, ground
1/2 tsp cinnamon

Place all ingredients in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook until the huckleberries have softened, about 20 minutes, then transfer to a blender. Blend until smooth.

To Serve
1/2 cup to 3/4 cup Oregon hazelnuts, roasted and chopped

Divide the warm apricot curry sauce between 6 plates, about 2 ounces per plate. Place 2 grilled quail on top of the sauce on each plate. Drizzle the quail with the huckleberry coulis and garnish with roasted and chopped Oregon hazelnuts.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:34 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

PEAR AND SAKEONE SORBET WITH HONEY CRISPS
From The Portland Clinic

Sorbet
2 1/4 lbs ripe pears, peeled and sliced
1 cup + 1 oz Momokawa Pearl Saké from SakéOne
1 cup + 1 oz water
1 1/4 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split

Combine all ingredients in a large, stainless steel saucepan. Simmer until pears are very tender. Remove the vanilla bean. Purée contents of saucepan in a blender until smooth. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve and cool completely. Once cool, freeze the purée in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer’s directions.

Honey Crisps
2 1/2 Tbsp honey
2 Tbsp butter, softened
3 Tbsp powdered sugar
1 egg white
1/3 cup all-purpose flour

Blend honey, butter and sugar in a mixer or by hand until smooth. Add egg white and blend, then add flour and blend until smooth. Grease a cookie sheet and spread batter in a thin, even layer across it. Bake at 375 degrees until golden (10-12 minutes). Remove from oven and cut into triangles while still hot. Allow to cool completely before serving with the sorbet.

Posted by Laura Ford at 2:13 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

CARROT-GINGER SOUP
From Monique Siu and Kevin Gibson of Castagna
Serves 4

1 onion, diced
6 large carrots, diced
1 thumb ginger, chopped
2 Tbsp butter
Sea salt
1/2 thumb ginger, finely chopped

Sweat onions, carrots, and one thumb ginger in butter until soft. Add salt and stir for 5 more minutes. Do not allow the vegetables to brown. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Simmer for 20-30 minutes. Add the finely chopped 1/2 thumb of ginger and purée. Strain. Pour into bowls and garnish with one of the following: thinly sliced scallions, seared prawns with coriander and cumin, slices of prosciutto fried in olive oil until crisp, or pea shoot tips.

Posted by Laura Ford at 12:33 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

From Monique Siu and Kevin Gibson of Castagna
Makes 16 cups

We have discussed how puréed soup just needs water, but sometimes you want a flavorful broth as the base for a soup. This is a simple and very quick vegetable stock, made with a combination of chopped vegetables. At home, we keep canned chopped tomatoes and canned cannellini beans on hand, as well as this stock, so we can always make a quick minestrone with whatever is in the vegetable drawer.

2 large carrots, peeled
1/2 head of celery
1 large onion
2-3 fennel tops
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/4 cup black peppercorns
2 large bay leaves

Chop vegetables and sauté gently in olive oil until translucent but not brown. Add peppercorns, bay leaves, and 4 quarts cold water. Bring to a boil, then turn down and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain.

Posted by Laura Ford at 12:45 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

NEW POTATO AND CHANTERELLE GRATIN
From Ellen Jackson
Serves 4-6

2 lbs new potatoes (or russet potatoes)
1 lb chanterelles, cleaned
2 Tbsp butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh tarragon, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups cream
Salt and pepper

1. Put a large pot of generously salted water over high heat. As you wait for it to boil, slice the potatoes (peel first, if using russets) into 1/4-inch thick rounds. When the water boils, add the potatoes, return it to a boil and cook the potatoes for 2 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Tear or slice the chanterelles into 1/4-inch thick pieces. Heat the butter in a wide sauté pan and, when it is bubbling, add the mushrooms and a bit of salt. Cook over medium-high heat 4 to 5 minutes, add the shallots and cook another minute. Remove from heat and add the tarragon.

3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter a gratin dish or shallow casserole. Layer the bottom with half of the potatoes, and season them well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add all of the mushrooms and cover them with the remaining potatoes, overlapping the top layer to make it look nice. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Gently pour the cream over the top. Bake for about 40 minutes until the potatoes have absorbed most of the cream and are covered in a golden crust.

Posted by Laura Ford at 11:04 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

By Food Stylist Carolyn Schirmacher and Photographer Edward Gowans

BUTTER-RUBBED ROAST TURKEY WITH AN APPLE CIDER GLAZE

From The Thanksgiving Table by Diane Morgan
Copyright 2007

Serves 12 to 20, depending on the size of the turkey

This turkey, cured with Apple Cider Brine and then basted with apple cider during the last hour of roasting, has a sweet and beautiful bronze-glazed finish—perfect for showcasing on a buffet table. I like to garnish the serving platter with lady apples and kumquats nestled in a bed of fresh herbs.

1 Apple-Cider Brined Turkey (12 to 16 lbs) Click here for recipe
1 large yellow onion (about 10 oz), quartered
4 cloves garlic
2 Golden Delicious apples, cored and quartered
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 fresh sage leaves
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
Turkey giblets (neck, tail, gizzard, and heart only)
1 cup homemade chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups unsweetened apple cider or juice
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

Position an oven rack on the second-lowest level in the oven. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Have ready a large roasting pan with a roasting rack, preferably V-shaped, set in the pan.

Place the onion, garlic, apples, thyme, and sage inside the chest cavity of the turkey and truss the turkey. Use a pastry brush to brush the turkey with the butter. Season the turkey with salt and a few grinds of freshly ground pepper. Place the turkey, breast side down, on the roasting rack. Add the giblets, stock, and 1 cup of the apple cider to the pan. Roast for 30 minutes.

Lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Baste the turkey with the pan juices, and roast an additional 30 minutes. Remove the turkey from the oven. Use oven mitts covered with aluminum foil, or wads of paper towels, and turn the turkey breast side up. Baste with the pan juices, and then return the turkey to the oven.

Continue to roast the turkey, basting occasionally. After it has roasted for 2 hours, begin basting every 30 minutes with the remaining 1 cup of apple cider. The turkey is done when an instant-read thermometer registers 165ºF when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. When the internal temperature of the turkey is 125ºF, the turkey is about 1 hour away from being done. (Roasting times will vary depending on the size of the bird, its temperature when it went into the oven, whether or not it is stuffed, and your particular oven and the accuracy of the thermostat.)

When the turkey is done, transfer it to a carving board or serving platter, and cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. Allow the turkey to rest for 15 to 30 minutes before carving to let the juices set.

While the turkey is resting make the gravy: Place the roasting pan over medium-high heat. Discard the giblets. Skim any fat from the surface, and bring the liquid in the pan to a simmer. Using a wooden spoon, scrape and loosen any brown bits sticking to the bottom and sides of the pan. Place the flour in a 1-cup measure, add a small amount of the simmering liquid, and blend until smooth. Slowly pour this into the simmering liquid and whisk until thickened, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl or sauceboat to serve.

Carve the turkey. Serve, accompanied by the gravy.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 1:04 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

From The Thanksgiving Table by Diane Morgan Copyright 2007

Trust me here—you will never again complain, nor hear complaints, about dry breast meat if you take this easy first step in the preparation of your holiday bird. After nearly 20 years of cooking a Thanksgiving turkey, I am convinced that brining produces the moistest and most flavorful turkey I have ever tasted. Brining requires nothing more than boiling water with salt, sugar, and spices; cooling the mixture; then soaking the turkey in the brine for 12 to 24 hours.

Apple Cider Brine (recipe follows)
1 fresh or thawed turkey (10 to 25 pounds)
2 oranges, quartered

Special Equipment:
2 turkey-size plastic oven bags (see Cook’s Note)

Have ready a heavy roasting pan large enough to hold the turkey. Place a plastic oven bag inside a second one to create a double thickness; then place these bags, open wide, in the roasting pan. Remove the turkey from its wrapping. Remove the neck and bag of giblets from the main and neck cavity of the bird. Store separately in the refrigerator for making gravy. If using the Apple Cider Brine, at this point stuff the main cavity of the turkey with the orange quarters.

Fold back the top third of the bags, making a collar (this helps to keep the top of the bag open). Place the turkey inside the double-thick bags, stand it upright, unfold the top of the bag, and pour the Apple Cider Brine over the bird. Add an additional 2 cups of cold water. Draw up the top of the inner bag, squeezing out as much air as possible; then secure it closed with a twist tie. Do the same for the outer bag. Place the turkey, breast side down, in the roasting pan and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. Turn the turkey 3 or 4 times while it is brining.

One hour before roasting, remove the turkey from the brine. Discard the bags, brine, and any cured herbs or spices remaining on the bird. Discard the oranges and ginger. Rinse the turkey under cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

Apple Cider Brine
Makes 3 1/2 quarts brine; enough for a 10- to 25-pound turkey

2/3 cup kosher salt
2/3 cup sugar
6 quarter-size slices fresh ginger
2 bay leaves
6 whole cloves
1 tsp black peppercorns, crushed (see Cook’s Note)
2 tsp whole allspice berries, crushed
8 cups unsweetened apple cider or juice

In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, put the salt, sugar, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and allspice. Add 8 cups of apple cider or juice and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Boil for 3 minutes; then remove from the heat. Add 4 cups of ice-cold water, stir, and set aside to cool. Then proceed with the directions for Apple-Cider Brined Turkey.

Cook’s Notes
Plastic oven bags (made by Reynolds) are found with other food storage bags at supermarkets. Buy the turkey-size bags. They are food-safe, plus they are big, strong, tear-resistant, and come with twist ties. I do not recommend using plastic garbage bags because they are not intended for food storage. I use a double thickness of bags as a precautionary measure against leakage. For the same reason, I place the bagged turkey in a roasting pan.

The easiest way to crush whole spices is to use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. If you do not have either of these kitchen tools, then place the whole spices in a heavy lock-top plastic bag, seal the bag pressing out all the air, and pound them with the bottom of a small, heavy saucepan.

Now What?
Check out Diane's recipe using the Apple-Cider Brined Turkey here: Butter-Rubbed Roast Turkey with an Apple Cider Glaze.

Posted by Deborah Kane at 12:37 PM | Permalink | Comments ( 0 )

OREGON BERRY AND PEACH SANGRIA
From the Oregon Raspberry & Blackberry Commission
Serves 6

A deliciously fruity and refreshing summer beverage best enjoyed from large wine glasses, filled with ice and garnished with fruit.

750 ml (about 3 cups) dry red table wine, such as a Burgundy
1/2 cup orange juice, or juice of 2 large oranges
1/3 cup lemon juice, or juice of one large lemon
1/3 cup sugar
3 Tbsp brandy (optional)
1 cup raspberries or blackberries, fresh or frozen
2 peaches, quartered and sliced
12 oz (1 1/2 cups) club soda or sparking mineral water
Ice

In a punch bowl or 2 1/2 quart pitcher, stir together first 5 ingredients. When sugar is dissolved, add berries and refrigerate 2-3 hours to allow flavors to mingle. About 1 hour before serving, add peaches. Add soda/mineral water to sangria just before serving. Pour into glasses filled with ice. Garnish with berries and fruit slices.

Posted by Laura Ford at 11:54 AM | Permalink | Comments ( 1 )