April-May 2006

Portland, Oregon, is the kind of city where a "greener-than-thou" restaurateur's dilemma over what to do when Monsanto executives make a dinner reservation is a lead story in the local 'newsmakers' column, where local chefs are celebrities and have their own cooking shows (Caprial Pence), and where a neighborhood BBQ joint feels the need to advertise its vegetarian fare (Cannon's Rib Express near NE 33rd and Killingsworth). It's a city where food and eating and increasingly agriculture are taken seriously and form an important part of the cultural scene and landscape. A growing interest in regional food and agriculture has resulted in efforts to enhance rural-urban linkages through creation of farmers markets, community supported agriculture, farmer-chef collaborations, and promotion of local food products, and has resulted in political efforts at scales from the household to the state to foster a regionally-based community food system.

Agriculture and urbanization have traditionally been linked in discussions of loss of agricultural land to urban growth, however, there are regional variations in patterns of urban growth and in the adaptive transformation of farms. The cultural and economic context of agricultural change around Portland suggests that population increase and cultural change can provide opportunities for farming by creating markets for locally grown products. Changing food preferences and local food politics can affect land use and landscape and help shape a regional dynamic where agriculture connects rather than divides urban and rural residents.

CHANGES IN FARMLAND AT NATIONAL, STATE, AND REGIONAL SCALES

At the national level there has been a continual decrease in farmland over many decades, with a loss of over 80 million acres and 185,000 farms since 1974. During this same time period however, there has been an increase in the number of farms under 50 acres, reflecting an increase in the number of small and/or hobby farms surrounding urban areas. This is supported by the dramatic increase in the number of farms at the low end of the income spectrum (that is, less than $2500) by almost 400,000 between 1974 and 2002, and by the number of farms at both the larger sizes and higher incomes, reflecting in this case a significant loss of the "ag in the middle" or the traditional family farm.

In Oregon there is a similar pattern of overall losses (6% decline in number of farms between 1974 and 2002 compared to 8% national decline), but a significantly greater increase in the number of small farms (131% vs. 37%) and a gain-albeit small-rather than a loss in middle income farms. Changes in Oregon's agricultural picture need to be considered in the context of state land use planning regulations that date from 1973. These regulations have contained urban sprawl through the establishment of urban growth boundaries around all towns and cities in the state and provided specific protections for 'prime agricultural land' and areas zoned for 'exclusive farm use.' Despite rapid population growth in Oregon's "Eden"-the Willamette Valley-particularly over the last 15 years, farmland has not been converted as rapidly as it might have been without the land use planning regulations.

In the Portland metropolitan area-this includes five Oregon counties and Clark County, Washington-patterns of farmland change challenge the conventional wisdom about farmland loss, especially considering that the area's population increased from 1.3 to 2 million people between 1980 and 2003. Not only did number of farms increase, so did land in farms (due, in part, to the fact that Christmas tree farms were counted as agricultural land in the 2002 agricultural census, but not in previous censuses). The number of small farms increased, but so did the number of farms larger than 1000 acres and farms in all value categories increased. This suggests that generalities about farmland loss mask profound regional variation and that to understand agricultural change we need to look more closely at forces affecting land use and landscape change at various scales of analysis.

OREGON AND PORTLAND METROPOLITAN AREA AGRICULTURE

Oregon agriculture is remarkably diverse and reflects the dramatic regional variation found in the state. Eastern Oregon is high desert country with an economic landscape of wheat, cattle, hay, mining and timber extraction-the classic extractive economy of the intermountain west. The lush Willamette Valley forms the core of western Oregon. It is the 'Eden' that Oregon Trail pioneers sought as they headed out on wagon trains for the six-month journey from Missouri and toward which modern "pioneers"-Richard Florida's "creative class"-still come in search of "the good life." The state of Oregon grows over 225 commercial crops, more than any other state except California and Florida, and the greatest diversity of production occurs in the Willamette Valley. Most of the production is exported and 40% leaves the country. Despite economic changes over the last 50 years, agriculture remains an important part of the state's economy, first in terms of volume and second only to high tech in terms of export value.

While it might not be surprising that agriculture is important to the state of Oregon, the concentration and importance of agriculture in Portland's metropolitan counties is contrary to popular notions about the coexistence of agriculture and urbanization. Three of the metropolitan area counties (Clackamas, Yamhill, Washington) are among the top five agricultural counties in the state. Multnomah County, where Portland is located, is Oregon's most urban county, yet still ranks 14th in value of agricultural production. Four of the five counties (Clackamas, Washington, Yamhill, Multnomah) are in the top five counties for greenhouse and nursery products; four (Washington, Clackamas, Multnomah, Yamhill) are among the top five producers of cane berries; and two (Yamhill and Washington) are leading producers of wine grapes. Nine of the most productive agricultural counties in Oregon are in the heavily populated Willamette Valley.

FACTORS AFFECTING PORTLAND METROPOLITAN AGRICULTURE

This agricultural bounty began attracting chefs, cooks, gardeners, and sophisticated eaters in the early 1990s when a number of new restaurants began touting 'regional Northwest cuisine' that drew on locally produced and regionally distinctive food stuff such as salmon, wild mushrooms, game, pears, and berries. This attention to local and regional foods captivated the general public, which in turn began demanding more readily available fresh and local food, driving an increase in direct marketing of agricultural products through many different channels. In recent years there has been a politicization of the local food system idea with a variety of organizations such as Portland-Multnomah Food Policy Council and Ecotrust working to both promote local agriculture and provide alternatives to the corporate food structure through their support of "buy local" food procurement strategies.

This combination of demand for a more diverse array of food, fed by globalization and immigration, and the political emphasis on sustainability and 'living in your region' (ironically, a kind of response to the globalization of food) has had an impact across the United States mirroring trends that are well established in parts of Europe. Portland provides a model for investigation of these trends because of the diversity of agricultural production, the physical setting, the concentration of a "foodie" culture, a tradition of political activism, and the existence of an urban growth boundary which provides some controls over sprawl. What factors shape this distinctive food culture and what is the impact on agriculture in the region?

THE ROLE OF CHEFS

In the Portland area, and more generally in the Pacific Northwest, chefs were instrumental in drawing attention to the amazing array of local foodstuffs; they have played an important role in creating a local food culture and in promoting local agriculture. As visible public citizens they actively promoted support for local farmers and seasonal produce. A Portland Chapter of Chefs Collaborative was formed in 1998 and has developed, in partnership with Ecotrust, the "Farmer-Chef Connection," a direct marketing model that promotes long-term business relationships between chefs and farmers. This is accomplished by an on-line directory that helps farmers find chefs and chefs find farmers, a set of guidelines for both, and what one participant has called a kind of "speed-dating" conference where farmers and restaurateurs briefly interview each other to establish compatibility.

FARMERS MARKETS

Chefs were early supporters of a Portland farmers market which began in 1992. The official "Portland Farmers Market" has grown from a handful of vendors in a parking lot in an industrial area to three sprawling markets a week in downtown Portland with over 200 vendors. At its inception market organizers had a hard time finding enough vendors, now there is a waiting list for the downtown markets and 24 additional farmers markets in the Portland area (plus one in Vancouver, Clark County). Two of the Portland area markets have year round operations, extending income opportunities for farmers, and several markets are extending their seasons of operation.

FARM STANDS

Another form of direct marketing that has grown dramatically in the last several years, both in number and in publicity about them, are farm stand operations. 5000 copies of a flyer with the charming title "Sunset Trails to Country Fresh Foods" were distributed in 1977 listing 25 farm stands near Portland. Now 100,000 copies of the more prosaic "Tri-county Farm Fresh Produce Guide" are distributed through the local paper and other outlets, listing 80 farm stands in the greater Portland area. While some might consider this merely agri-entertainment for urban dwellers, it also provides a form of direct income for urban area farmers.

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COMMUNITY SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE

Increase in community supported agriculture (CSA), whereby subscribers buy shares or invest in a farm at the beginning of the season and in exchange receive weekly supplies of fresh produce, is also a national and local trend. In 1985 there was one CSA in the US; now there are over 2000. Over the last ten years, the number of CSAs in the Portland area has increased from zero to 18. About a third of them offer year-round options for produce.

GROWTH IN THE WINE INDUSTRY

Another culturally driven change in agriculture is the dramatic growth of Oregon's wine industry. This is due to the character of the physical environment and is part of a broader context of cultural change, i.e., it is not driven exclusively by local food preferences, but it has a significant effect on metropolitan agriculture since two of the counties (Yamhill and Washington) are leading producers of wine grapes in the state (#1 and #3 respectively). This has led to the conversion of what might have otherwise been considered marginal land to grape production, to a significant agri-tourism focus for the region, and to a visible and vocal lobby for the preservation of agricultural infrastructure and agricultural landscapes.

DEMAND FOR ORGANIC FOOD

Demand for organic produce, also part of a national trend, has helped shape the character of urban area agriculture. Oregon Tilth has certified organic farmers in Oregon and elsewhere since 1974. Because of variation in certification criteria it is difficult to gauge absolute change in organic production in the state of Oregon, although it clearly is increasing. Oregon Tilth records an increase from 180 to 220 organic farms in Oregon between 1998 and 2001 and an increase of over 5000 acres, from 12,000 to over 17,000 over the time period. The 2002 Census of Agriculture, which lists organic farms for the first time under the new USDA criteria, tabulates 515 organic farms in Oregon, 144 of which (28%) are in the Portland area. If we look more broadly at the other urban areas of the Willamette Valley, 266 organic farms (over 50%) are in metropolitan counties.

POLITICAL EFFORTS TO TRANSFORM AGRICULTURE

More explicitly, political efforts are also having an impact on agriculture and land use. Efforts to establish food policy councils at state, county, and city levels are present in over 20 states. Oregon is one of several states to have efforts underway to establish a statewide Food Policy Council and is second only to California in the number of local or county- wide councils (there are five in Oregon, eight in California). Food policy councils are 'joint citizen and government advisory bodies that review and recommend policies that strengthen the local food economy and improve access to healthy and nutritious food' and to combat hunger. "Council members represent the diversity of stakeholders involved in the food system, from farmers and processors to retailers, anti-hunger advocates, nutritionists, planners and community members." Among the impacts that the Portland-Multnomah Food Policy Council has had on local food production is a commitment from the County Corrections facility to increase purchases from local suppliers. In the 2004 growing season the county bought $57,000 in fresh food from Portland area farmers (including those in SW Washington). Another effort involved a direct marketing workshop for immigrant farmers (Hmong, Cambodian, Latino, and Somali-Bantu) to help with developing marketing opportunities, community gardens, and access to land.

FOOD PURVEYORS AND THE ROLE OF ENTREPRENEURS

Burgerville, a locally owned fast food outlet with locations in southwest Washington and northwest Oregon, has a corporate policy to feature local food and to source as much of their menu as possible from local purveyors. From hazelnut, raspberry, strawberry, huckleberry, or pumpkin milkshakes, to Walla Walla onion rings, sweet potato fries, Oregon Country Beef, buns made from local wheat, and Tillamook cheese, Burgerville has built a loyal customer base on its support of local agriculture.

New Seasons, a chain of locally owned grocery stores, is "a company [with] a true commitment to its community, to promoting sustainable agriculture and to maintaining a progressive workplace.…When you shop at [this] locally owned business your money stays in your neighborhood, creates local jobs, and nourishes the unique character of your community." They prominently feature this motto on their web page: "Think Local, Buy Local, Be Local." The success of this concept and consumer demand has prompted other area grocers to feature local and organic produce.

The Food Innovation Center, a branch of Oregon State University's agricultural extension service, is based in Portland. Its mission is to help local producers and entrepreneurs develop food products that support Oregon agriculture. The center provides assistance with packaging, preparation and processing of food items, and marketing and has worked to develop or improve a range of signature Oregon food items that find their way to regional, national, and international markets.

IMPACTS ON RURAL LAND USE

How do efforts such as farmer-chef cooperatives, farmers markets, community supported agriculture, increases in organic production, a vibrant wine producing region, local companies with emphasis on sourcing local products, and political structures promoting local agriculture affect land use and support for farmland near cities? What are the impacts of these efforts on agricultural production and the agricultural landscape?

Agricultural census data provides a basis for addressing impacts of changes in urban food preferences and food policies on rural land use. With respect to 'land in farms', acreage decreased in three area counties (Washington, Columbia, and Clark), but increased in Clackamas, where Christmas tree and nursery and greenhouse production are particularly strong, and in Yamhill County with its booming winery and vineyard industry, and even increased marginally in Multnomah County. Harvested cropland, which some researchers suggest is the best measure of agricultural production, shows increases in Yamhill, Clackamas, and Columbia, decreases in Washington and Clark, and little change in Multnomah County between 1987 and 2002.

Overall agricultural production in the Northern Willamette Valley and in the Portland area is skewed by the fact that nursery and greenhouse production dominates the region and the five counties. It is Oregon's largest agricultural sector by value and is the leading commodity in Washington, Clackamas, Multnomah, and Yamhill counties. These four counties are among the top five in the state in value of nursery and greenhouse production.

To better understand how food preferences and cultural and political factors affect agriculture we can look at agricultural census figures for 'direct marketing' which includes value and acreage of farmers market vendors, farm stands, community supported agriculture, and U-pick or farm stand operations. There are overall increases in value of production in all area counties between 1992 and 2002, with the exception of Clark County, Washington (which has less restrictive land use regulations, rapid population growth, and serves, in part, as a bedroom community for Portland). Local observers of the agricultural scene are unsure why Multnomah County's value of direct marketing products spiked in 1997. There is general agreement, however, that figures for direct marketing in Oregon and elsewhere are undercounted. Direct marketing in the Portland area by number of farms shows an increase in all counties except Clark County, Washington. These figures suggest that cultural preferences, which would be reflected most clearly in the figures for direct marketing, along with land use planning regulations have combined to provide an avenue of opportunity and a measure of protection for urban oriented agriculture.

REGIONAL AND NATIONAL IMPLICATIONS

Does the growth of demand for local food and the increasing number of farms devoted to direct marketing have an impact on metropolitan agriculture in Portland? Can changing attitudes about food consumption have an impact on agriculture overall, particularly agriculture around cities? A preliminary look at two other cities-Kansas City, Kansas and Charlotte, North Carolina -which have very different physical and cultural geographies, and different patterns of urban growth, indicates that those metropolitan areas have also experienced increases in land in farms over the last 15 years and suggests that these changes are occurring on a national scale in metropolitan areas. Given the national increase in number of farmers markets, community supported agriculture, and support for regional and local food production, these changes are likely having an impact on other urban areas as well. By way of example, the number of farmers markets at the national level more than doubled between 1994 and 2004, from 1,755 to 3,706. The number of farms or farmers involved in selling products or produce to farmers markets increased from 86,432 in 1987 to 116,733 in 2002.

The "buy local" trend, increasing attention to regional identity, and the role of food and agriculture in shaping places, are apparent in the cultural, economic, and political landscapes of metropolitan regions. These changes in the way people think about and purchase food make a political statement and are a way of supporting the regional agricultural economy; they also are a way of buying 'landscapes,' of supporting viable rural land uses and livelihoods, and in 'voting through your food choices' to create a regional dynamic that links the rural and the urban. E

This article first appeared on www.terrain.org.

Whenever I'm asked the question of how and why I became a chef, I usually cite two primary influences: Greg Higgins and John Storrs. Greg, chef of the local Portland restaurant, Higgins, opened my eyes. And, John Storrs is my dad-an architect, who taught me perspective. But, it took a seemingly unrelated comment from a third person-a gardener-friend named Lucy-to bring a compelling notion into focus; that the underlying source of my inspiration that distinguished and defined me, was the place in which I lived: Oregon.

Lucy Hardiman isn't just any old green thumb. She is a local author, educator and plant lady, who grew up in Portland, in a house designed by my dad. Lucy once told me that the reason she became a gardener was because of her home. The way that her house related to its surroundings and how the views from inside engaged the landscape, inspired her to dig in the dirt. At the time, I remember thinking this was pretty neat. I didn't understand the deeper significance of her comment, or how it related to me, until much later.

Growing up, my father and I really came together over food. I enjoyed design and architecture and I could work a drill, but I couldn't really draw. I didn't want to be an architect. Besides, my dad owned the job and his success would have cast a long shadow. He was proud that I became a chef and pleased that I gave him credit for inspiring me. I remember him haggling with the butcher over cuts of meat and scoring a free hot dog for me. I can visualize him carefully tending to minestrone soup, loaded with vegetables we had grown and harvested from our own garden. I recall his delight in the ceremony of one of his favorite things to cook and pronounce-Coquille St. Jacques-scallops and mushrooms in a creamy sauce, served broiled, in the shell.

I suppose having children of my own is what made me recollect Lucy's statement and re-examine my own inspirations. I had always assumed that I was a cook partly because of those times in my parents' kitchen, and an early exposure to esoteric foods. I gave my dad credit for introducing me to cooking and laying the foundation for appreciating food. My "eureka" moment was the realization that my father hadn't just laid a foundation-he gave me a blueprint. The kind of cook I am today-my approach to cooking-is quite similar to my dad's approach to architecture: consider the site, reflect geography with indigenous products, and cultivate relationships with local artisans whose work you admire. In my kitchen, this translates to: account for limitations of equipment and space, work within the seasons, source local products, and apply thoughtful, careful technique.

One of my father's great contributions to Oregon is Salishan Lodge, a resort property on the coast. The building is not grand. It hugs the hill and never entirely reveals itself. The resort is designed to focus the attention of its inhabitants on their surroundings. With great, big picture windows set within dynamic rooms, Salishan captures views that might have gone unnoticed. With its maze of meandering, covered walkways, the lodge allows guests the opportunity to interact with nature without getting soaked. Built of local stone and lumber, and adorned with the creative works of regional artists, the lodge describes the raw materials and talents of the region. The effect is calming. This is the right building for the site. It celebrates its surroundings, co-existing within and because of its environment.

For my dad, no stranger to ego, there was a greater thing to honor than his own design accomplishments: Oregon. It was the place where he, a Connecticut native, realized his full artistic expression. Oregon was his muse. The splendor and abundance of our state-the way she bashes with beauty-clarified my dad's relationship with nature. He understood that good design and architecture mean a respect for the natural surroundings. This knowledge enriched both structure and setting.

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Greg Higgins personifies this concept in the realm of food. I met Greg in 1992, when he was the chef at Portland's Heathman Hotel. I had just finished two aimless years at college, and my folks would not support C's. I took a job as a breakfast and lunch busboy at the Heathman. I wasn't any good. I forgot instructions, broke things, and made terrible butter curls. Once, during tea service, I poured a pot of scalding water in an unsuspecting lady's lap. I was shaken from my detached horror by her shriek.
Luckily, Greg forgave my dining room mistakes and invited me to spend some time in his kitchen. I was in thrall. Who knew being a chef meant so many things? Greg haggled with crunchy mushroom purveyors, and neatly transformed silver salmon into brilliant orange filets. He planned menus and mapped out dinners, drove and parented his team of cooks, created dishes and manipulated food like an alchemist. At the same time, he enjoyed himself immensely. Greg's enthusiasm for the cooking profession and his excitement over impeccable ingredients was undeniable-and contagious. Like my father, Greg was a transplant from the east coast-a New Yorker, as a matter of fact. So, why was his cooking so resonant and grounded here in Oregon? It must have been the muse.

Today, Greg-an expert in interpreting Oregon's naturally abundant regional food-is inspired to political action. He is an advocate for wild-caught seafood, and local, seasonal farm produce. He procures locally sourced ingredients for his restaurant, because he wishes to sustain local farmers and fishers. As a result, his food reflects terroir-the French word meaning the taste of the earth or, more broadly, the concept that you're eating or drinking where you are. Greg understands that Oregon's diverse flora and fauna are inspirational, because they're delicious. In fact, it is in his financial and ethical interest to be a guardian of the land and sea that provides his products. I like to think that the beauty and variety of local, raw material kindled in Greg an organic connection to Oregon. It is one of the reasons that cooking is so clearly his calling.

Greg, Lucy and my father crystallized for me an understanding that there is an essential connection between a place and its people. Products that epitomize place are fundamentally grounded. When artists who have internalized that connection craft these products, fantastic things occur. Our temperate climate and rich soil yield world-class produce. A variety of climates and geology stokes curiosity. Civic commitment to open space and protecting livability keeps the wilderness areas relevant. As a result, Oregonians are loyal, evangelical and a little bit kooky. Consider the legendary Governor Tom McCall's peculiar endorsement: Visit, but don't stay.

It took two east coast transplants and one Portland gardener to teach me to appreciate the specific rhythms of this place. Maybe growing up here desensitized me, but it wasn't until I began to think in terms of food that I could hear the rhythm of the land, and surrender a part of myself. Now, I'm happily bound to the seasons. Spring to me means asparagus, peas, fava beans and morels. Summer brings tomatoes, melons and stone fruit. And fall…fall is for chanterelles. And that's when it hits me. My two-year old son, Rye, loves to forage for wild mushrooms. I want to make sure that he can. Less selfishly, I want Oregon to remain a muse for others.

It would be difficult to pick more obvious examples than chef, gardener, and architect to support this hypothesis of place as inspiration. I'll add a fourth as an example of promise. When my boy-squatting under the bushes in our yard-calls out with glee, "I'm looking for mushrooms!" I realize that Oregon has begun to seep into him, too. It is imperative that we nurture Oregon, because Oregon nourishes us.

"I consider Portland to be the quintessential food city-in many ways ahead of New York City and San Francisco-because so much of the youth are expressing their creative food concepts here."

Theresa Marquez calls Portland, Oregon "the biggest little city."

Marquez is Chief Marketing Executive of the largest organic farmers cooperative in the United States, CROPP Cooperative, and its brand, Organic Valley Family of Farms®. CROPP consists of over 700 small and mid-size family farmers, and markets over 100 certified organic products including; milk, soy, cheese, butter, cultured products, eggs, produce, juice, and meat. Marquez joined the Cooperative in 1995 and has helped to grow the business from $5 million to $209 million in 2004. She is also the creative brain behind The Earth Dinner™, a joyful, animated, and inspiring theme dinner party held once every year on Earth Day, connecting people to the earth, their food and each other.

And, Theresa is from Portland.

This city is lucky to have Theresa as our hometown heroine. Born in upstate NY, Theresa grew up in a large family-one of eight children. Food and family dinners were always a big part of her upbringing. Theresa moved to Portland from California in 1976 and raised her family here. After taking her current job with Organic Valley®, and commuting between Portland and the coop's headquarters in Wisconsin every month for eight years, Theresa finally broke down and bought a house closer to work. But, she maintains a residence here, visits frequently, and considers herself an Oregonian. Daughter, Lola and son, Zachary both agree that living in Portland is still the coolest thing.

When asked what she values most about Portland, Theresa has a lot to say. "Food format and experimentation is what makes our town so unique. Who else gets written up so often by the New York Times? Where else could a place like 'ripe' get started, flourish and thrive? And now, 'Simpatica Dining Hall' offers another such unique and different food experience. It's so Portland," she says. "And Portland Farmers Market! Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement, thinks ours is one of the best he's ever seen. He once said, 'There are farmers' markets, and then there's Portland Farmers Market,'" Theresa continues. "Art and music thrives here in Portland. We've got a fantastic, vibrant, fresh, and creative culture scene. And, tell me, where else but Portland would you get an eccentric restaurateur like Bud Clark elected as Mayor?"

Theresa's instincts are right on. Portland has a history of being progressive. In fact, in 1972 the first organic law was passed here in Oregon and Oregon Tilth was already an important and influential certification program, when food certification was still a very peripheral concept. Today, Oregon continues its pioneer tradition and "out-of-the-box" thinking. "Whereas in other states only 1% of the food grown is organic, in Washington and Oregon it's 5%-the highest per capita," Theresa states.

One of the reasons we are so connected to our food in Portland may be because we are so inextricably linked with nature. On clear days, we can see volcanoes in plain view. There's a river flowing through our city, evergreen trees abound, and we've got Forest Park-the largest forested city park in the country-within walking distance from downtown. Theresa believes that unfortunately, in today's society, too many people are inflicted with NDD, or Nature Deficit Disorder. "Here in Oregon, we are so lucky. We are surrounded by beautiful nature. We are a lush and fertile land. Portlanders get used to the rain, and are hearty souls. We don't care if it's raining-we don our raincoats and head out to go hiking. We can be in the mountains, the desert, or near the ocean to be close to nature-take your pick."

THE EARTH DINNER™

Theresa's concept for The Earth DinnerTM first hatched in 2001, but it wasn't until three years later that the first dinner was actually conceived. Theresa recounts, "Seventy percent of the Earth's resources are used in agriculture, yet agri-
culture seemed not to be on the Earth Day agenda. Why not? Who ever heard of a holiday without food? I thought, let's put the food back into Earth Day celebration, and people will be more likely to want to participate as if it were a special anniversary or holiday.'"

Naturally, this premiere Earth Dinner™ was staged in her Portland home, and it was a potluck, multigenerational feast. Theresa recalls two 12-year old girls in attendance, who asked if they could take their heaping plates of food upstairs to do their homework. Before they were excused, an elder in the group brought up an early food memory, and asked the two young women to respond. "We couldn't believe it," said Theresa. "At first, the girls were so bored and didn't want to hang out with us older folks, but once the floodgates opened, they couldn't stop talking. And, after 2 1/2 hours, the girls were still sitting there, gabbing!"

Theresa believes that The Earth Dinners™ are so successful and special because they open up friends and family members to one another. "They are a cross between 'My Dinner with Andre' and 'Jeopardy,'" she laughs. "These ex-periences are designed for urban folks who don't have the opportunity to be connected to the land in their every day lives. Cities and urban pavement prevent that connection to the soil. It's so amazing to hear stories from people about how they got to know their family members better after having participated in an Earth Dinner™ event. "I once spoke to a woman who said, 'Wow! I've been married to my husband for 20 years and I never knew these things about him!'"

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Earth Dinner™ cards lead to lively conversation

Today, a typical Earth Dinner™ includes 8 to 12 people, is multigenerational, and participants tell their stories one at a time. A side benefit to The Earth Dinners™ is that the accompanying Creativity Cards stimulate storytelling. For instance, the Imagination cards recall past, present, and future and they encourage people to share their food stories. "These can bring back a flood of memories," Theresa remarks. "It can sometimes be very emotional, because so many people have negative feelings about food. They may remember being poor and growing up in a rural community, eating lard sandwiches. You'd be surprised at how many people connect about having eaten lard sandwiches as children!"

THE PYRAMID-THE EVOLVING ORGANIC FOOD LIFE

As Chief Marketing Executive of the largest organic farmers cooperative in the United States, Theresa has traveled extensively throughout the country, meeting with the owners of family-run farms. Today, the trend of farm consolidation means much bigger farming operations, and a dramatic reduction in the number of smaller, family-run farms. She recalls spending time with an Amish family, whose children were very involved in the family farm and always working, even at a very young age. "The Amish love a meticulous lawn," she says, "and they spend a lot of time mowing it to perfection." She met the family's 8-year old and 4-year old, who were both too little to use the manual push mower by themselves, so they worked together. One child pushed, and the other one pulled, using a rope. This family illustrated that strong work ethic that once was the standard in a rural, agricultural America.

Theresa's philosophy is to guard reductionist thinking about the debates between local food versus organic food, and shares a holistic view about knowing where our food comes from. She believes that people want emotional experiences. "They want to be informed about where their food comes from, but unless they have a personal stake, people won't care to change their behavior. Advertising won't change it," she says. "It must grow like the organic movement-organically-through grassroots, word of mouth, and recommendations. Unless you give people a vehicle for change, they won't do it."

In Theresa's view, the best metaphor for the organic/local food evolution is the 'Evolving Organic Food Life' pyramid, developed by Organic Valley's CEO, George Siemon. "It's a holistic continuum, a big 'stew of diversity,'" Theresa says. "Take the pyramid, for instance. It's a government bureaucracy at the bottom. Then, it's statewide initiatives, fair trade, and equal exchange in the middle. Then CSA identity preserved, saying here's the farmer and citizen-consumers taking responsibility. Moving to the top of the pyramid is personal action and 'grow/can/preserve your own.' Local and organic means food security. We must all take responsibility for educating ourselves about where our food comes from."

Here in Oregon, we pride ourselves on taking responsibility for knowing where our food is sourced. Portlanders support their local farmers' markets, join food coops, buy shares in CSA's (community supported agriculture), frequent restaurants that are dedicated to serving locally-sourced food, and are highly involved in food activism.

BRINGING IT HOME

What are Theresa Marquez's favorite Portland haunts? There are too many, to be sure. But, a handful of top contenders include McMenamin's Kennedy School, hiking in the Columbia River Gorge, her backyard garden, cooking in her kitchen, New Seasons Market, Jake's Famous Crawfish, Portland Farmers Market, Martinotti's, and Powell's Books. "My son, Zachary, knows all the cutting-edge, hip restaurants," says Theresa. "We're always going somewhere new, and he seems to know everyone there. I feel that each time we go, we get to know the people and the families running them."

Hearing Theresa wax poetic about Portland's awesome food scene, sustainable lifestyle, and environmental consciousness reminds me of why I moved here from the east coast, seven years ago, and wound up staying for good. "Listening is actually a weakness of mine," she laughs. But I don't mind. Portland's "hometown heroine" has so much to say, and I could have listened for hours. Alas, in a time-starved society, Theresa had places to go, people to see and important things to accomplish. Theresa had just finished speaking at a conference in the Midwest, and was jet-setting her way to attend a farm-related event the next day in the Northwest. This conversation was not over-it was just to be continued. Perhaps, next time, I'll just have to invite Theresa Marquez over for Earth Dinner™ at my house?