Andy Westlund

This begged the question “Don’t commercial turkeys, even organic ones, reproduce naturally?” A turkey sex education lesson was in order. It turns out that the demand for weighty, big-breasted birds, organic or otherwise, has driven the evolution of commercial turkeys to the point that it is physically impossible for the Tom to reach the hen. Hence, artificial insemination is required to get Tom’s semen into the hen.

This didn’t fit Westlund’s model for a balanced, natural ecosystem at Harmony J.A.C.K. Farms. “Over-selection for broad-breasted big birds has made the commercial breeds weaker and weaker. Many commercially-raised chicks die very early on,” says Andy. “We are trying, with each generation, to build up our turkeys so they are nutrient-rich, healthy birds that are raised on ‘A’ quality soil. The same thing that makes those birds healthy will make us healthy.”

The learning curve for raising and breeding heritage turkeys has been long and slow. At the farm, Andy incubates the eggs, and raises the chicks in hay-strewn protected areas until they are wing-clipped and ready to graze naturally in the field. The turkeys are allowed to free-range in large pastures that are “field fenced.” They are naturally feeding on grasses and insects and are given organic whole grains on a free-choice basis. However, the first year, Andy lost 80% of his chicks. “We are trying to raise chicks that can stand on their own two legs and survive, but this was devastating.”

Now, with a better understanding of how to raise turkeys, Andy has added farm dogs to the farm’s ecosystem to protect the turkeys from their natural predators—coyotes, skunks, and raccoons. During my visit, three fluffy white Great Pyrenees-and-Marama-mix puppies were scampering around outside a penned turkey-protection training area. The plan is to train the dogs to protect the turkeys from natural predators, but first the puppies must learn to be calm and comfortable around the turkeys and for the turkeys to learn the same—another symbiotic relationship—bringing harmony to the farm.

Andy’s next challenge is to find a USDA-approved poultry processing plant that will process birds in a chemical-free “organic” manner. As a general rule, USDA-approved plants use chemicals to process the birds; however, organic status can be given to plants that can demonstrate their ability to safely process birds without chemicals.

A co-op of poultry producers named Greener Pastures had an approved processing plant with exempt status but went defunct because there wasn’t enough volume. Andy now has his sights set on a fellow named Joe Schuler who is trying to get a plant with USDA-exempt status up and running; this would allow Andy to bring 1,500 to 2,000 heritage turkeys to market each year. “It shouldn’t be this hard to get these legally inspected birds to market, but it is,” says Andy. “Over the years it has been a multi-layered process, and there is a ‘house of cards’ aspect to this turkey business.” But when you look at Andy gazing peacefully over his nutrient-rich, lush pasture with grade A soil, watching plump healthy turkeys grazing, you know he is hopeful and that he will persevere.

Go to harmonyjackfarms.com to purchase a turkey directly from Harmony J.A.C.K. Farms.
Learn more about heritage breeds from the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.

Diane Morgan is a Portland-based cookbook author, freelance writer, and cooking school teacher. Her web site is dianemorgancooks.com.

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