Edible Portland Blog

KIDS ARE STARS OF THREE RING FARM'S CIRCUS
Story and photo by Luan Schooler
For August-September 2006

When Pat Morford bends over to move the hay feeder in the pen of young goats, three of them rear up to put their front hooves onto her back and shoulders as though they are about to climb atop her. She finishes cutting free the feeder and shakes off the climbers, laughing, “Get off of me, you beasties! You’re monsters, all of you!” The kids back away for the moment, but it’s clear they’re just waiting for her to turn around so they can do it again. They think of her as their mother, Pat explains.

“They treat their mothers like trampolines. If she lies down, her kids will start jumping on top of her and sliding down her sides.” When Pat climbs into each of the other pens to fix the hay feeders, there’s another little gang of goats waiting to play.

Pat has Three Ring Farm in Logsden, Ore. and makes River’s Edge Chevre. Through long experience, careful attention to husbandry and lots of patience, she has developed prized breeding lines of bucks that she sells internationally and nannies (more politely known as does) that consistently produce excellent milk for cheese.

The farm is in a beautiful spot, up against the rolling Coast Range. The house and barn sit side by side just off the winding Logsden Road, and the pasture opens up behind them and then trails off into the wooded hills. Pat’s dogs Bobo and Fang race to the driveway to greet visitors and then trot off for a long, lazy game of tug-a-war with someone’s sock.

CHILLED BEET SOUP SHOOTERS
From Lucy Vaserfirer, Chef, In Good Taste Cooking School
Yields 24-30 shooters

2 medium beets, scrubbed
1/2 small russet potato, scrubbed
Salt, to taste
Juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup English cucumber, peeled and diced

Place the beets and potato in a saucepan, add water to cover, and add a scant tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and let simmer 35-40 minutes, or until the beets and potato are cooked through. With a slotted spoon, remove the beets and potato to a plate and set aside until cool. Meanwhile, strain the cooking liquid and let cool.

Peel the beets and potato and combine with 2 cups cooled cooking liquid in a blender. Process until a smooth puree is achieved. Transfer the mixture to a pitcher and add enough cooking liquid, and additional water if necessary, until the desired consistency. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until well-chilled. Pour the chilled soup into chilled shot glasses and add a few cubes of cucumber to each. Serve immediately.

Aaron Dionne and Joe McGarry bring salt water to the fire for last year's Eat Local Challenge.
Photo courtesy of Bon Appétit

CORPORATE CHEF WITH A CLEAN (AND GREEN) CONSCIENCE
A Profile of Joe McGarry of Bon Appétit Management Company
Written by Liz Crain
For August-September 2006

When making a list of the most influential food folk in Portland you’d probably include a slew of executive chefs from our most renowned restaurants, a handful of food business entrepreneurs and maybe a couple of local food writers. Chances are, you wouldn’t give a moment’s thought to the cooks and chefs populating the kitchens of our numerous colleges and universities, corporate cafes and other large-scale dining operations.

Well, you should.

Joe McGarry, regional chef for Bon Appétit Management Co., a progressive on-site food service company based in California (but in many ways conceived in Portland), has been rocking the Portland food scene for nearly 10 years with his sustainable vision of what large-scale food service should be.

SALTY CHARACTER
McGarry and I met up a couple of months ago at one of his favorite neighborhood coffee hangouts—Tiny’s Coffee at Southeast Twelfth and Hawthorne. At 36, McGarry’s style is casual, his personality friendly and laid-back, but his food agenda, as well as his job track, cuts right to the chase.

We chatted about his colorful cooking past and how he first got into food service. After working at various restaurants—first washing dishes at a 1950s-style diner, and later dicing and spicing at an esteemed Mexican restaurant—McGarry knew that he wanted a career in cooking. He moved to Portland from the San Francisco Bay Area in the late 1990s and took an entry-level position with Bon Appétit at its Oregon Health and Science University on-site restaurant. In less than two years McGarry was Bon Appétit’s executive chef at Intel’s Jones Farm Campus in Hillsboro.

From Jeff Schon, Executive Chef, The Pine Tavern, Bend Serves 4

Hazelnut Crust
1 cup Oregon hazelnuts
1/2 tsp fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 tsp fresh oregano, chopped
1/2 tsp fresh rosemary, chopped
1/3 cup cornmeal
2 Tbsp flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper

Purée all ingredients in a food processor until it has a crumb texture.

Marionberry Margarita Sauce
2 Tbsp salad oil
2 cups yellow onion, small dices
1 Tbsp garlic, minced
1/2 cup tequila
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp lime juice
3 Tbsp honey
1/4 cup sugar
2 Tbsp rice vinegar
1 cup water
4 cups fresh marionberries or blackberries
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper

Caramelize onions in oil in a medium saucepan until browned. Add garlic and tequila and reduce until dry. Add juices, honey, sugar, vinegar and water and bring to a boil. Add half of the berries and return to a boil. Remove from heat and purée mixture until smooth in a blender. Add remaining berries and salt and pepper.

Final Step
Coat 4 6-ounce halibut filets in the hazelnut crust. Place on greased baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes. Top with the berry sauce and garnish with favorite starch and vegetables.